Author Topic: dubcats secret little hideout  (Read 121071 times)

2018-08-14, 16:07:43
Reply #255

aldola

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i love hisao suzuki work, but i dont know the camera he used, may be someone here knows it

2018-08-14, 20:19:59
Reply #256

Basshunter

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Zbrush. Seriously, with some wood brush, this is the most efficient way for sculpting/modeling your reference.

Thanks for your opinion Oddivisionary. I appreciate it.

Can I ask you something else?

once the sculpting is done, how would you approach texturing process?

2018-08-21, 07:50:37
Reply #257

subpixelsk

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Hi dubcat, I got into hdri calibration thanks to your tips thank you! However I would like to somehow calibrate hdri that has partially overcast sun - is that possible in any way? or is it just eyeballing then? for example some of noemotion evening hdris so that the intensity of direct light would be correct

2018-08-21, 11:04:41
Reply #258

romullus

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And one more question about HDRI from me. I remember you mentioned that photoshop damges HDRI files uppon saving them. How would be possible to check if a file was crippled? I took two files, one with unclipped dynamic range in HDR format and another with clipped range in EXR format, made simple offset adjustment in photoshop and resaved both in their respective formats. Both files came out at almost exact same size (difference is within few bytes), both have unchanged dynamic range and renders identical to unmodified files (except for the shadow position, of course). For me it looks like the files weren't damaged at all and are perfectly safe to use. Am i missing something? I would like to adjust transformation of most of my HDRIs, but before doing that i want to be sure that i won't do any irreversible damage.
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2018-08-22, 13:48:27
Reply #259

Dippndots

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@romullus regarding EXR, if you save a "32-bit" EXR from photoshop and try to use it in max, the window that pops up after selecting the file will list each channel as 16-bit, if you have ProEXR, I'm under the impression that it saves correctly?

2018-08-23, 21:37:51
Reply #260

dubcat

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The Canon 5D Mark I (classic) always had something special in the color rendition.
Hey!

Here is the RGB version of the LUT. It actually brightens 0 RGB, quite interesting.

Hey Dubcat.

Hey man!
I see oddvisionary has been kind enough to answer when I was afk. I would use your sculpting software of choice and Painter.
I would also generate an IOR map from the normal map, since this model would be fictional and not based on specular scans.
You need the IOR map for micro shadowing like here:



Hi dubcat, I got into hdri calibration thanks to your tips thank you! However I would like to somehow calibrate hdri that has partially overcast sun - is that possible in any way? or is it just eyeballing then? for example some of noemotion evening hdris so that the intensity of direct light would be correct

Hey!
If the sun is blocked by clouds and the HDRi provider does not include a grey card reference, we just have to guess. If you give me a link to one of the HDRis you have in mind, I can take a look at it.

If you are interested in getting real world values, you can do this:

- Go outside when it's cloudy.
- Place a ColorChecker grey card on the ground.
- Take a photo of the grey card.
- Recreate the grey color material. If you use a ColorChecker Passport, the grey bellow yellow is 19.8% linear (122 sRGB). (A grey sphere would be best, since you can capture F0).
- Create a camera with the same settings you used on the real camera.
- Calibrate your HDRi until the real and digital color checker match in values.

Before doing that i want to be sure that i won't do any irreversible damage.

Hey man!





My guess is that the HDRis you tested already had low sun values, that are bellow Photoshops clip value. If you add 7 +20 Exposures in Photoshop above a 255 RGB layer. You will go above the threshold and it turns black.



I've attached the Corona Sun/Sky HDRi saved from Corona, if you want to do tests on that one.

edit: fixed typo, i meant specular not spectacular :p
« Last Edit: 2018-08-24, 03:01:05 by dubcat »
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2018-08-23, 21:48:16
Reply #261

Basshunter

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Thanks for your answer @dubcat

2018-08-23, 22:14:16
Reply #262

pokoy

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Quote
You will go above the threshold and it turns black.

You had one job, Photoshop. Someone should tell Adobe it's 2018 already *facepalm*

2018-08-24, 07:21:44
Reply #263

siebe

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Hey!

Here is the RGB version of the LUT. It actually brightens 0 RGB, quite interesting.


Thanks! you are the best :)

2018-08-24, 07:44:37
Reply #264

subpixelsk

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For example 03-29_Sunset from noemotion if you wouldn´t mind :) thanks a lot


2018-08-24, 09:29:40
Reply #265

romullus

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My guess is that the HDRis you tested already had low sun values, that are bellow Photoshops clip value. If you add 7 +20 Exposures in Photoshop above a 255 RGB layer. You will go above the threshold and it turns black.

Ah, that might be the case indeed. Good news that you can't ruin HDRIs that are already ruined :]
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2018-08-24, 14:25:22
Reply #266

Basshunter

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Hey dubcat,

Do you think there's any way to guess the albedo color of an object (In this particular case a wood floor) from just reference photos (Low quality) with different light conditions?

2018-08-25, 11:14:45
Reply #267

romullus

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I would also generate an IOR map from the normal map, since this model would be fictional and not based on specular scans.
You need the IOR map for micro shadowing like here:

Hi dubcat! Would it be too much to ask if you have normals to IOR photoshop action and are willing to share it? I know that you already gave us specular to IOR and roughness to IOR actions, but one of them doesn't work for me and the other one doesn't give as good result as i hoped for (likely because i'm doing something wrong). I have a feeling that normals to IOR might be what doctor prescribed :]
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2018-08-27, 14:46:49
Reply #268

romullus

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My guess is that the HDRis you tested already had low sun values, that are bellow Photoshops clip value. If you add 7 +20 Exposures in Photoshop above a 255 RGB layer. You will go above the threshold and it turns black.

So what would be solution to editing/saving of full float EXRs? I have some 8K 32 bit displacement maps that i would like to downsize to 4K and resave, but can't figure out how to do that. Photoshop is no go, my beloved small app Picturenaut is as bad if not worse. I even tried to use 3ds max slate editor's option to render map and save to exr, just to find that it clips everything to 8 bits *sigh

Is there some app that can edit and save 32 bit files in a proper manner? Preferably free or low cost one.
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2018-08-27, 14:53:33
Reply #269

Juraj Talcik

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Affinity designer has superior 32bit environment capabilities compared to Photoshop. They really outdid Adobe at this.
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